My Theory - HHO Design

July 1, 2008
I cant tell you if resonance is the key to producing more hydroxy. I am working on it now to see if it can be done. It should be a simple task, unless variables throw in obstacles. The values of capacitance of the circuit in air, is nowhere near that when placed in the solution of water-electrolyte. I have measured a capacitance of 2 uf in air but when introduced to water changes to somewhere near 200 uf. Even then it changes every second. It starts off at a low value of say 40 uf then rises steady. Now all this is without power applied.
If the value of capacitance changes so much, it makes it near impossible to hold it steady at any resonant frequency. Much thought has been given to using a phase lock loop, I even had the idea to sweep the frequencies with a simple sweep circuit, that way i was bound to hit on the right frequency. The problem is, who knows what the frequency is. So all this stuff with PWM's is great but, i have my doubts that it is actually tuning any unit, rather its just turning on and off power at a given frequency and duty cycle, due to not being able to syncronize, thats all it can do. I dont think anybody has achieved a tuned circuit that works, since the Meyers circuit. I'm not so sure his worked so well either. I still dont know how much his unit produced per watt. You can bet the race is on though, and that there are many trying it daily. Now I do have a flaw in my test? I just thought about the capacitor test i made. If I had used distilled water, would the value of the capacitor change or remain the same value as the water value and not vary? I will try it and see and report back.
Back to the circuit design to resonate the hydroxy generator. I cannot give you specifics right at the moment on how i will try to resonate it, since i have yet to do it. I can tell you it will happen in the next few days. and will keep you posted on that too.
July 7th,2008. will attemp to resonate generator tonight, using the generator as the base frequency. Come back and see the results. I will be taking pics and videos, to upload.

July 8th, 2008 Started on the oscillator unit for testing but ran out of time and got side tracked with the main cell unit again. Tested unit with drinking water, that was sodium free. Must of had some residue left over because it came apparent. I refilled the unit again and now I have readings that are less variating. 240k ohms of resistance and 8.5 uf capacitance in water. Voltage to unit after measurements are 80 ma at 11.56 volts. when using my nasty water it was pulling more than 8 amps. Now as you can see from my tests the cell unit consists of resistance in parallel with capacitance, and inductance on each lead plus the cell unit inductance. The capcitance is as a real leaky capcaitor in air as it has resistance now. I have not been able to measure the inductance yet, since I dont have a unit yet to do that. Will have to build one of those too I guess. One thing leads to another. At this point I believe you could use the unit to create an oscillator using the resistance and capacitance. But you would not resonate, you are only setting up a charging rate, or time constant. You could take a 555 ic and accomplish this or maybe an 4011 nand gate IC. my unit calculates out to be 1.955 seconds for the time constant. Here is a time constant calculator online. There are many more you can find.
What we are interested in is producing resonance with the unit as an electrical resonance.
That is using inductance and capacitance which has a reactance and a charge field. It would be interesting to chart the resistance,amperage,voltage etc. as it all performs together. I do want to say that if you tried to use Ohms law here to calculate the current draw it does not compute. The reason is, there is a reactive component that is causing the unit to draw more amps. This is important to think about. I went to a hydro plant one day to work on a piece of equip there and watched as they brought another generator online. Man that thing made a racket. He told me he didn't get exactly right on but will auto adjust itself. It was growling becasue it was not syncronized to the phase of the sine wave, so it fought the electric field until it was in time with the 60Hz here in the States. I rewound an alternator one time Thinking I was going to produce more volts etc. Well as it turns out I wound each coil next to each other instead of every third slot. The result, it never worked at all, but It moaned real hard and tried to put the brakes on itself. The windings were not in phase, I messed up. The windings looked real good too. Oh well too bad. What I am trying to say is, The cells are the same when it comes to a field. Reasons why +-+-+- combos just dont seem to work like they should, The reason +n n n - etc seem to work better. Less current and its not fighting itself. to make a real go getter unit, one must find out how to work with the field and not against it. The more you are against it. the more amps it will draw, and you notice less production at the same time. There needs to be a spacing that is correct and one that does not hinder the production. By trying to resonate it, is a step toward breakig that bearier. That's when the reactive components are equal. So when I say fighting itself i mean there is a field of energy in and around the cell, evident by the voltage in the water, that you can measure; If you take a plate and put it in the field, then take another plate and put it in the field, the second plate needs to be placed accordingly, so the field has minimul reduction. Then add a third plate and do the same. The result is a field of energy working at its full potential and not being blocked or misdirected in the wrong direction, but being enhanced as if to increase power, without actaually using any more power. See how a directional antenna works, and you will see what i mean. Back to work on testing and building to figure this all out.

Didn't spend much time testing tonight. Trying to get test equipment in order. I had two plates of galvanized that are about 3 x 4 or so. They are end plates with holes predrilled in them. I purchased them at Home Depot for about $.70 each. I already had two plates at 3-4 mm apart. I will need to remeasure to be sure. Attached 12 volt power and looked at the bubbles. Then I took a third plate. I powered the first plate, and third and left center not connected. I moved the third plate toward the center plate until it touched, looked at the amp guage, and watched the bubbles, this represented two plates. As i gradually moved the plate away the current began to drop then stopped and rose ever so slightly then dropped again. I tried it several times to be sure of the effect. At the point it stopped just before falling again it put out more bubbles than the two plates by themselves or the third plate at the same distance as the first two. when this phenomena occurered it was about 1.5 mm away or about 1/2 the distance. Now I suppose you need to take and attach it with an adjustable screw to get it right. Then take your 4th plate with no connection and move it away and to the third to see if anything happens. Then take a 5th plate, set the 4th at 3mm, then adjust the 5th. Then readjust the 4th and again the 5th until it is right on. As you proceed then do the rest the same way. Noting the distance for each. Then you can come up with a formula for building another one later, possibly bigger. I will use this technique in my plate generator that i plan on building. I really haven't put it together yet, because i wanted advantages such as i have found by doing this. Then the final product when i get done
will be a more productive unit, and not just another unit. Then the final electronics will help even more. I'm sure i will keep saying these things over and over, but it helps me to be reminded of what i want the final outcome to be. I will probably work on some test equipment now and get back to this later.

Before I get too involved I dont believe I mentioned I just finished the LCD frequency counter. Now I can read the frequency of the PWM with no guess work. You can make one too. Here is the frequency counter
Took a break from building anything, while I investigate a few more items of interest.
I see where some people say resonance cannot be done unless you are in the gigahertz range, way up there in the gHz range. Then I saw where a guy tried to resonate his testing tube, turned his head then looked back and found out his tube full of water was gone. He looked up and saw a hole in his ceiling. After more investigation, found it went through the roof too. Now that sounds a litlle scary to me.
He was using a kHz frequency and a lot of power. So the problem i see here is what use is it to expend an enormous amount of power to create resonance. Then again, maybe that is not what he really did. You know I cant be discouraged because someone says it cant be done. I have also been looking into ultrasonics, check out my "misc stuff page". Maybe there is a clue from all these things as to how to break the barrier of production and power. Is it possible to create a chain reaction that will power itself to create the energy needed? I also have to take a look at a car that runs on magnets instead of water, maybe that's where i need to be studying instead of trying to master electrolysis. I do get a little discouraged when a chemistry engineer says resonance cant happen in this process, at least not by a hobbyist like myself.
So what do i do, give up? No! I think iam on to something as my saga continues. i will attempt to tune the plate distance with three plates for starters, use a electrolyzer cell to create a frequency, dependent on the cell itself, and so on. More to come, what's next I dont know. I think i need to finish the PWM, to accomaodate my new design, then test it on a single cell against no PWM and then a two cell, a third and fourth and so on. I think there are many who would like to see some actual numbers and real values, instaed of mine put out blah, blah, with two spoons of baking soda, blah, blah. You know its getting old, i want to see some real meaningfull stuff. I'm sure you are wanting to see some of my designs too. I have to make them first. so far I have decide to use the classic 555 timer as my base generator, with selectable, bands and variable frequency. Because my duty cycle will be different than the rest that will come later. For now I am going to run the 555 into a flip flop for an exact 50% duty cycle for some tests i need to make. That way the duty cycle remains the same with frequency, where on most PWM's you get for hydrogen stuff, the Pulse width changes as the frequency changes with the 555 timer IC. So by adding the flip flop circuit, i can hold it at 50%. I know pulse width plays an important role, but I am not going to build a pulse width circuit as of yet. I want to be able to go from say 1 HZ (1 pulse per second) to several megaHertz. I will be using an LCD readout to display what frequency we are at, so there is no guessing.

July 16, 2008

I am looking into the PWM design Today. Evening now, looked into switching bands of frequencies with a simple IC switch, rather than a physical mounted switch. Sounds more high tech. got home from work and had to try to see if i could use the test unit, (two plates 3 x 5 inches spaced 5/16 apart). Sorry about not reading in mm, couldn't find my rule. have to get another. Two things i wanted to do; see if i could use the unit to find its own resonant frequency. Now that was a big surprise so far. using as a capacitor in water is way different than air. dielectric of water is about 80, air is about 5. Now i have baking soda in the water this time, so i'm sure it was much higher than 80. The unit as a capacitor with only two plates was a huge value. it was about 50 uf the first time i measured it. I'm sure it went up as the baking soda was added. So to make my test circuit oscillate was a real challenge. I ended up with 546k resistance from pin 8 to 7 and 544k from pin 7 to 6 of the 555 timer ic. with the frequency counter set to resolution of 1 Hz, i did not get anything, except it went to zero. So i placed a 10 uf cap in series and i was now at 64 Hertz. I used a 1uf cap at it was at 120 Hz. Now the cap is replacing the cap at pin 2 to ground on the IC. So if you think you are going to resonate that as a capacitor, good luck. It does not behave like a capacitor at all. so putting in a LC circuit and saying it is a capacitor in the C portion of the formula is wrong. It has way too much leakage to be a capacitor as we know it. But on the good side I was able to make that a part of the frequency determining circuit. problem is, it is on the input side, not the output, so no power to create bubbles could be realized. this was only a test anyway, and it worked! The test circuit was just a basic 555 timer circuit. the capacitor from pin 2 to ground was repalced with the hydrogen cell in series with a 1-10uf capacitor. Now I have yet to try it with plain water, but what's the use?
It will only be a different frequency, and does not prove anymore, at least for now. I tried to replace the resistors with the unit, but the unit measured about 40 Ohms in water with baking soda. The amount of soda was not measured. Now interesting to note, if the measured value was 40 Ohms, that calculates out to be .3 amps of current, if hooked up direct to the battery to create HHO. Wrong, it has a negative coeffiecient. Meaning when voltage and current is applied the resistance goes down, increasing the amps. According to the readings, of almost 7 volts at 7 amps, it was 1 OHM. Big Difference! So we have learned alot about that portion of it, now how do we work with what we have?
Now I also took the challenge to measure the water voltage. Look at the figure below:

Note that the two plates are the dark wide line in the middle. Also noted that if you reverse the power leads, the maximum field is still the same. My question is , why is it not running in the direction where zero is when reversed? It might have something to do with power leads at the top of the plates instead of the bottom, which i did not try and invert the plates. So I am not sure why on that.
Now if you take a reading from the lower left max and work your way around the edge clockwise, the voltage will decrease until it reaches the center-line to the far right, then it starts to climb again. Now if you do reverse the polarity of the power, interesting enough, the voltage is a negative voltage that's measured at the same points, but the maximum is .17volts then decreases from there. The max was at the far right at center line. I will have to re-measure that one., but it was on that side in that same area.
If you are hooked up normal with positive on the left plate side; Also note that the positive plate is facing down or south. the normal reading was about 1.8 volts at left max and 1.57 at right max. This measurement was taken probing with positive probe only and negative probe hooked to negative wire outside of water. I have tried both probes in water one at each max and rotate. Thats how i originally came up with the max points. I found it easier to use one probe, not so confusing. The test plates are zinc not stainless. Because I am interested in the plate field more, i will measure on its side and also invert the plate leads to the bottom. These test were made in a 5 gallon soap bucket. No soap of course. Not sure what is on the next agenda for things to do. I think it might be the adding of a third plate and where is optimum spacing. so to do this, I will need to make the first and the third plate adjustable. The reason is after i adjust the third plate for maimum, whatever distance that will be, the first two are still the same spacing. Now after you add the third plate, I am sure it will change the first to the second too. so that means, adjusting the first and third back and forth unitl maximum is found. Makes sense to me to work with the field, instead of against it. also should see that the amperage should be lower too. Once we get the plates fine tuned in distilled water, will it change with baking soda or koh. If it does that means that it makes a difference how much you put in to get the most efficiency and more is not better. If it does, also you will need a way to monitor and adjust automatically to keep that operating point. enough for today, another day tomorrow. Conclusion of all this so far is: I dont think the unit can be used as a capacitor. It might act like one, as far as charging goes, but I still need to give it more thought how it might be possible to resonate the thing. The more I think about it, the more I am leaning toward the fact we are all seeing this wrong. Meyer did not reasonate his unit as an LC resonator. He has a coil in his circuit alright, and it points that way, but so far I just dont know. After what I have done today, I will give it much thought and do some calculations etc. to see if what meyer said and what freq's he used etc. adds up. I also have other ideas how to ppwer the unit as I stated in previous comments. We will get to those as we progress. In the meantime, if you dont know how to solder, or dont know anything about putting a PWM together, then maybe you should go buy a solder pencil, and some solder to start learning how to solder. No you dont put the solder on the pencil then stick it to the part you are soldering. we can have a lesson on soldering if need be. There is no reason why you cant solder and build your own boards.
If you have an excuse its because you dont want to know how. wouldn't it be fun to make a PWM that does more than the rest of them. With my designs, you will know if they work or not. How do you know if it works or not when its hooked up? Just because it works, doesn't really mean its working. It could have a shorted output, in which case it would work to power the cell but the PWM will be non functioning. My unit will have a way to see if its working, and hear. For starters my unit has an LCD display to see the frequency. That's what i am using right now for my tests. The complete unit is not built yet, only the first stage that creates the frequency, which i needed for todays tests.

I know I have been using reactance loosly, when it really refers to AC , not DC, but I guess I am referring to the electric field surrounding the plates in the unit. I know there is a force there that we need to understand, mainly me. I am looking into it, have to start somewhere. Now I might be wrong but if you hook up a PWM and it energizes a coil then the voltage goes to zero, the field collapses. The collapsing and energizing field to me would seem to cause some reactance. So therefore, maybe it is true for the HHO unit. There is a steady field when powered with DC but still there are things moving and rotating in that field. I'm sure there are some who know all about what I am doing, and the fields involved; but if that were true, then how come nobody has figured out how to deal with the stuff and make it work to its fullest potential. I will study the electric field in water now to see if it holds any clues. I will read this article and return. Ok that was interesting, but way too much info for me. I will look into electrolysis and see where I end up at. Looks like I didn't get much done this time, getting burned out, so took a break. I need to get a few more measurements from the unit in water and its field. With positive on one end and negative on the other. That is positve on one plate on top and negative on bottom of the other plate, and then take more measurements.

Haven't started the plates yet, had a few more things to try. I went back and thought about the resonant thing. I thought if i could reduce the capacitance by placing another plate in series with it that only had say about 2uf then it would be easier to resonate. So at about 8 inches away from the two plates, i soldered a wire to a fender washer and just touched the water and it went to about 5 uf. Palced it all the way in the water and it went off the scale of 20uf. So that didn't work. need more thought on that. It did make the washer bubble at 1 amp of current at that great distance. The solution has baking soda in it.
Back to the electronics. While i was testing the duty cycle portion of the circuit, it never occured to me before, but even though say 2.5 KHZ is being fed to the width control, what comes out is now a different frequency as far as the output is concerned. The input is still 2.5 KHZ but the output frequency will vary with the width adjustment. Now remember with most PWM's that use a 555 ic chip they just vary the frequency to get the duty cycle difference. What I am trying to do is maintain the frequency and change the duty cycle. So I see in order to do that you must do some calculation. You need to determine the output frequency then add the duty cycle to the calculation to end up with the input frequency you need. In other words if i want a 20Khz output frequency i need to input a 40 khz signal, then adjust the width until it says 20 khz at the output. I dont know if it will make any difference at all what frequency it is, but who knows? electric motors might like 60 Hz but HHO might like something different. I was going to make a circuit for just a perfect 50% duty cycle. You might ask why, but i cant tell you at the moment since it is part of a circuit i want to test connected to an HHO unit. Just a theory i have i want to test. I hope i can do that next time. I can use just a resistive load to test. I just looked at it on paper and i'm not seeing it make a difference. It just sounded good to me, to be able to manipulate the output to put out more HHo with the same current draw. Wishfull thinking i guess. I'm not done yet. There still might be a way.

Nothing new today, but did alittle experiment with a couple of electrolytic capacitors.
Just for a test, i figured it would charge at which point point current woukld flow just for an instant and stop. Sure enough, so I wondered if one could short it on the off cycle and then it would charge again on the on cycle of a pwm. That's nonsense and nothing gained there.
The experiment was in part to find a way to decrease the capacitance in the circuit. Then I saw my answer, maybe. I have not tried it yet, but iwould appear that if the cells are hooked in series, each cell seperated from each others liquid, should bring the total capacitance down. This HHO device does its own thing it looks like. Shoots theory down the tube, but i will try it next time to see what happens. If I can bring down the capacitance it will be easier to work with for resonant purposes. But as the capacitance goes down, the resistance should rise by putting cells in series like i mentioned. That might be a good thing. Next time I will measure to see how it pans out.

Have been working on design lately, will get back to resonance later; not to say I have forgot about resonance. I can keep messing with resonance, but I need to build an adjustable plate system. Right now I am interested in building a unit that will work with the new electronics design, and get it in the car. Then I can get back to the other stuff later. After viewing different cell units people have built, I pay attention to the different styles, production, and ease of building. I dont know, but it seems like there are many variables. I know I still have the thermos cell to put together, but I put it off for now, because it would be "just another cell". It will probably have 15 or more fender washers on a rod inside. So for a quick unit to put together, this might be it. A hole will be drilled in the bottom to mount the rod and washers. I thought about using the top of the thermos, then you could just unscrew your element and replace or play with it. Maybe I can place it in the top, but i need room for the output hose. Ok, theres my challenge, to fit the screw on thermos top with all the goods. The thermos would have to be the negative terminal and the center positive. That's what i had intended anyway. A thermos was made for heat, one of the reasons I chose it. I need to buy a good fitting for it now I know what to get. I will continue building that under the thermos bottle generator and not here. I have started building another cell unit with an idea i have. If you see anything that looks familiar, it will be because I have seen it elsewhere or It is a coincidence. I cant believe how many ideas I have, somebody else is thinking the same thing, weird. The other unit will be a multicell unit, like others I guess, but this one will have the electronics that go with it that will be special, unlike anything you have ever seen on any cell. I'm not sure what to call it so for now I will call it the "Taylor cell". I will create a new link on the front page. Now back to the other stuff. I will draw a few diagrams for you, so you can see the different configurations of a PWM and how they work. There are a few ways to get the end result, just depends on you, and your needs. See PWM.

Ok maybe I should call it the "sixshooter" The motorcycle battery cell unit. After the thermos event I'm not sure what i will do now. I looked at the thermos today, and the threaded rod end, the nut, and the washers were completely destroyed with rust, or corrosion, just overnight. I really need ss inside. Oh well its only for a test anyway.
I dont know if i will get anything done today or tonight. We'll see how much time i have. then return to tell another story, and show more pics and drawings. OK I'm back.
Found out if you make the center negative it will produce twice as much.
I used the washer method at right and produced 240 ml in 70 seconds. When I
made the center negative then it produced 240 ml in 35 seconds at 12 volts using a car battery. amperage was aright at 20 amps. What a waste of energy. The
ss tube standing next to the bottle in the pic. produced about the same. The final results were the washers remained cooler to touch. the tube was pretty warm.
So what i think i have learned tonight is that if you can use smaller pieces of metal to
get the same results as one bigger piece, It should be cooler and have less of a heat problem. So i will use that approach in building the sixshooter. I have two ways to do each cell. place the plates vertical or horizontal. I am talking about 1 inch by 3.75 inch plates stacked + -+ -. Actually i could stack them vertical the short side or the long side but horizontal only one way. I really was leaning toward horizontal, but i am beginning to think vertical long way is the best for circulation of the solution. That is 1 inch wide 4 inches long leaves one inch above and below the plates or move the plates toward the bottom so the water level can drop without uncovering the plates. The thermos thing can wait awhile. I cant seem to get enough out of it to be worth much. I would like to see at least 2 liters per minute from a cell that runs cool. I dont know what the gains would be for gas mileage for 1/4 liter per minute. that would be about 5 liters in 20 minutes. If the car was running at 60 miles per hour and normally uses 1 gallon oif gas for 20 miles, or 11.76 liters per 100 km. So I dont know how to calculate
the extra 5 liters of HHO in the formula. I wonder what percentage of HHO would have to be. I'll ask on the forum for an answer.

It has been awhile, but time is not nice sometimes. Have been in design mode, looking over and figuring out how to go about designing the pwm. Interesting of all the obstacles that come about as you design. I will cover just a couple for now. The circuit that creates the frewquency is basically simple. In my first design I am not interested in duty cycle as long as it is around 50%- 70% thats ok. For the first stage that is. The first stage uses a 555 timer ic. Nothing hard about it or putting it together. Heres where the fun begins. Questions, are: is this going to be inside the car or under the hood? Is it going to be a fixed frequency or do i want variable. If its variable what frequencies to make variable. If it's variable and its under the hood, do i want to control it from the inside of the car. will there be noise pickup on the control line to effect the 555 timer ic. Will i switch it to cover more than one band of frequencies? Will the switch be inside the car? Now the next stage. Duty cycle... what duty cycle do i need? will it be fixed, switchable fixed or variable. where will the control be located;in the car or under the hood? I am not using the frequency as a duty cycle control here because i want to be able to adjust both independently to see if it makes a difference in the production. The simple 555 pwms do just that. Now after the duty cycle comes the output device driver to drive the mosfets, some devices output enough power so you dont need a driver, but in my case i am operating the 555 at 5 volts regulated, i will need a driver to allow 10 volts for the mosfets to turn on all the way. Lets skip the duty cycle thing for now and talk about the driver and mosfets. Now these are just a few problems i have encountered. First i need 10 volts to drive the gates of the mosfets. Cant do that with 5 volts without a doubler. So an easy way will be to use a transistor as a switch to let current flow to the mosfet gate and have a potential of 10 volts at the gate of the mosfet. the transistor will be driven by the duty cycle chip of your choice. Next problem is mounting the mosfets. I bought the to-262 case style because i saw them on ebay cheap. Now i am paying for it. I should have bought a to-220 style which has a screw hole for mounting. What i have done, dont know if it will work yet, but i took some heat sink grease, applied a little the mosfet and held it to the heat sink which i used JB-Weld to hold it in place. Looks like a good idea, but we will see. Now here is another problem again. where is the mosfets going to be mounted, on the pc board under the hood or inside the car? Sounds easy enough but wait... I am going to be drawing 20 amps from the source. Will one mosfet do the trick, it says 56 amps. Good grief there is dot by the 56 amps, and says for one fraction of a second at blah, blah, blah. Oh and if the mosfet says it can do 169 amps it wont, the to-220 case will meltdown at 75 amps. Look at the mosfet leads, do they look like they can carry 56 amps? No. Maybe 20 amps. Thats only part of the problem. If you mount it to a pc board will the foil carry 20 amps? Ok maybe if i dont mount it to a pc board and hard wire it to where it will reside under the hood. Now that you are thinking, how about the distance from the HHO cell to the mosfets. Or even the battery to the mosfets. wire size is important.
find the wire size, see how much resistance is in say 4 feet of wire. Now take 20 amps, multiply it by the resistance and you get the voltage drop or loss through the wire, from one end to the other. Will it be large enough without melting? Find a wire size that will carry the current. Now most pwms take two wires so multiply that by two. Therefore unless you are running a low current device, you must take these steps to prevent failure. Back to the mosfets... you could use more than one in parallel to split the current between them. Also the wire size needed is smaller now. Say if you had 4 mosfets, each carrying 5 amps, will be 20 amps total. Each mosfet is not working as hard and will last longer, and run cooler. Be sure the heat sink for the mosfets is big enough to get rid of the heat. I thought about attaching the load to the source side of the "N" mosfet, but not a good idea for various reasons. Would be better to just use a "P" type if you wante to do that. The for that was to only use one wire instead of two. You could have one hot wire and the side of the cell would simp[ly just go to the frame ground of the vehicle. Just use big enough wire and using two wires wont be a problem. I am in the process of soldering the circuit together, along with some special extras. Like a monitor for amperage to the unit. Digital so its more precise. Frequency monitor, to see what frequency works best, and duty cycle monitoring. A few other goods also i will mention later after i see how it works. I should have a unit working by August 12th, 2008. That is if time and back permits. Then i will be able to see any faults that need correcting etc. See ya soon! No diagrams yet until its done. Oh yes and current limiting so it doesn't blow the mosfets if the output is shorted and you can set the maximum current.

I have been working every day on the new project, electronincs, for HHO, having failures of course, from things that were overlooked and never realized would happen. One thing I observed with other circuits is the mosfet could burn up if the pulse driving components quit working. What I have seen is the Mosfet gate is attached to the positive rail through a resistor and kept high until it is pulsed by the circuit and then the gate is driven low.I dont think it's a good idea to do that. So I needed to design a circuit that would only turn it on when it receives a pulse, and if the electronics fail, well I would hope it would be in the off position. If the op amp hangs up and the output remains high, that could happen I guess, but if the 555 quits then the Mosfet will be off too. At least the circuit is better I think. I actually have a TTL chip between the 555 and op amp for testing other things, not covered here, but it should still work ok connected as shown. If you have any problems let me know. I suggest using an LM324 for the op amp, as this will give you more op amps to add on stuff as we go. I also used ic sockets for quick replacement of the chips if something goes wrong. The Mosfet I am using is a HUF7963953. I have two in parallel, although three would be better to share the load. They need to be heat sinked. with two I was able to drive them to 10 amps with no heat sink for about 5 pulses at 1 Hz, before they got warmed up. I was just seeing if they could do it without burning up. Heat sink them to keep them below 135 degrees celsius. Preferebly 75 degrees C. operating tempperature or less. here is the circuit.

I ran out of steam for awhile. For now I am waiting to try out the new device, but will soon it looks like. The new device for HHO is basic and as soon as its tested, if it works to satisfaction, I think I should continue. I have seen some pwm's on E-Bay and I see ones that use 100hz frequency but only control the pulse width that are about $30 USD.
They look like they can handle 20 amps, 30 amps max using two 80 amp mosfets. I also saw one ad for another stating it could handle I dont know know but well over 100 amps. Using the same size mosfets. I say bogus. In order for that to happen it will take more than a mosfet rated at 100 amps each. By the way a to-220 style mosfet will fry at 75 amps, even if the rating says 100 amps. Look closely at the specs, their rating is for like 1 pulse only test at a fraction of a second. Also the leads cannot handle that much current. Imagine a piece of wire the same diameter as the leads on a mosfet, tell me now, how much current will that pass? look it up in the wire size table, if you dont believe me. I have a few thoughts of course on what to do next in the HHO world. One is to build a multipurpose HHO device that has what people need in an HHO device. It looks like a device that can handle the current, control its self not to go over the current that you set. Have enough current available to run your HHO projects with ease, without fear of ruining the output device, short circuit protection in other words. A device that stands above the rest. I am seeing a rise in them lately, I did see one rated at 80 amps, maybe it will do it maybe not. I have to see where they actually show it loaded or test it under a load with specs, so that is what I need to do is show proof and spec it. I intend on selling the circuit board and parts kit for pwm's. From basic to more powerful units, all with some sort of protection. I want to be able to provide a quality product you can depend on. For now Myself and a friend are going to do some testing on the first unit. I will go from there wheather to patent or not. Not so sure it makes a difference, because no matter what you do, there will be somebody else that will make one better as soon as they see yours. Just a note here or two just to let you know I am still here and the web site will continue to grow.